Lining Marte

Marte is an unlined coat, and there´s been many requests on how to make a lining. Here´s a simple method.
  1. Get your front pattern piece. Measure the distance between the front edge to the fold line (dashed line) at the top (A) and the bottom (B). Measure and draw the same amount on the other side of the fold line. Your line should now meet the corner of the neckline. The measurement between your drawn line and the edge at front should be twice the width of the facing ( ca 9cm x 2 = 18 cm).
  2. Cut along the fold lines of the pattern at the bottom of the front-, back piece and sleeve. Also cut along the line that you drew.
  3. Place the pattern pieces on the lining fabric. Place the back piece 2 cm from the fold at center back. This extra amount is for ease over the back, to keep the fragile lining fabric from tearing. Add seam allowance before cutting the pieces.
  4. Start by making the back pleat in the neck. Sew a straight seam with 2 cm seam allowance 3 cm down from the neck at center back. Secure the thread properly. Fold the pleat at the center, to get a little fold at each side of the seam.
  5. Sew the lining pieces together the same way as the coat.
  6. Finish the hem of the lining with a double folded edge and a straight seam.
  7. You will now attach the lining to the coat. The corner of the neckline should match the corner where the facing meets the collar of the coat.
  8. Attach the lining along the facing. The lining should overlap the bottom hem by 1-2 cm. Make sure to match the corner of the neckline with the corner where the facing meets the collar of the coat. distribute the fabric along the neckline evenly. Sew from the bottom hem on one side, up towards the neck and down to the bottom hem of the other side, with a straight seam an 1 cm seam allowance.
  9. Turn the coat with the right sides out. You will now sew the sleeves of both coats together along the open edges at the wrist. Start by pulling two sleeves that belong together on one side through the hole at the bottom hem of the skirt. Make sure not to twist them. Place the sleeves towards each other with the wrong sides facing outwards. Match the seams, pin and sew the sleeves together along the wrist.
  10. This is how the sleeves should look like when they are attached together. Turn the sleeve(s) back and check if everything is correct before repeating on the other side. Finish sewing the coat by following the instructions for the coat.

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